We live in a landscape that teaches restraint. In Clanwilliam, at the foot of the Cederberg, heat and wind strip moisture from everything that tries to hold it. Our hands tell the story first: fine cracks at the knuckles, a tightness after washing, that familiar feeling that the skin is doing its best with too little.
It is in places like this that we stop thinking of oils as indulgence and start seeing them as biology. Olive oil is not a trend ingredient. It is a lipid system, a chemistry of fatty acids and antioxidant compounds that behaves in precise ways on skin and hair. When people call it "liquid gold," we can smile at the poetry, but what keeps us interested is the quiet science underneath.
In this journal entry, we take a slow walk through what olive oil actually is, how it interacts with the skin barrier and the hair fibre, who benefits most, who should be cautious, and how we use olive oil's strengths inside a waterless, solid skincare philosophy.
What olive oil really is (and why the details matter)
Olive oil is mostly made of triglycerides: three fatty acids attached to a glycerol backbone. That sounds abstract until we remember that our outermost skin layer, the stratum corneum, is also a lipid architecture. Skin barrier function depends on the right mix of lipids and the right arrangement of those lipids between corneocytes. When we apply an oil, we are not "feeding" skin in a vague way. We are changing surface lubrication, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and the micro-environment where enzymes, microbes, and inflammation interact.
The main fatty acid in olive oil is oleic acid (a monounsaturated omega-9). Smaller portions include linoleic acid (omega-6) and palmitic acid (saturated). Beyond the fatty acids, extra virgin olive oil carries a valuable fraction of "unsaponifiables," compounds that do not turn into soap during saponification and that often explain why one oil feels more alive than another:
- Squalene, a natural component of human sebum that contributes to softness and surface flexibility.
- Tocopherols (vitamin E family), which help limit oxidative stress in the oil and on skin.
- Polyphenols such as hydroxytyrosol and oleuropein, which are studied for antioxidant and anti-inflammatory behaviour.
- Phytosterols, which can support barrier comfort and reduce the "raw" feeling of dry skin.
When we talk about olive oil for skin and hair, we are really talking about how this specific lipid profile and antioxidant fraction behaves on living tissue and dead keratin fibres.
Olive oil for skin: barrier comfort, friction reduction, and antioxidant support
1) It is an emollient first (and that is not a small thing)
Dryness is not only a lack of water. Often it is a lack of lipid organisation that allows water to stay put. Olive oil spreads easily and reduces friction. That matters for hands, shins, elbows, and any place where skin is repeatedly rubbed by fabric. Less friction can mean less micro-inflammation, less itch, and fewer flakes that become a constant visual reminder.
In the Cederberg winter, we see barrier fatigue everywhere. If you want a deeper dive into why skin cracks when the air turns cold and dry, we wrote about that mechanism here: Winter Skin Cracking: Understanding the Barrier.
2) It can reduce TEWL, but it does not replace your barrier lipids
Olive oil can slow water loss by forming an occlusive, lubricating film. Yet it does not rebuild the stratum corneum lipid matrix the way ceramides and balanced fatty acid profiles can. This is why many people experience olive oil as immediately comforting, but not always "repairing" on its own.
Our approach at Aardvel is to pair oils with structural butters and waxes in waterless formats, so we get both spreadability and staying power. In a solid body moisturiser, olive oil can provide glide, while ingredients like shea and cocoa butter bring density and longer-wearing protection. If you want to understand those two companions, we have separate deep dives on shea butter for skin and hair and cocoa butter in skincare.
3) Antioxidants in extra virgin olive oil are real, but freshness is everything
Much of olive oil's reputation comes from extra virgin olive oil (EVOO), not refined olive oil. EVOO retains more polyphenols, which can help buffer oxidative stress. In practical terms, that means a fresh, well-stored EVOO is more likely to support calmness and comfort than a tired bottle that has been sitting warm under kitchen lights.
Oxidised oil is not a neutral substance. Rancidity changes scent, texture, and potentially the irritation profile on sensitive skin. If your olive oil smells like old nuts, crayons, or stale fryer oil, we do not put it on our face or scalp. We compost it or use it for non-skin applications, and we start again.
4) The oleic acid question: why olive oil is not perfect for everyone
We need to be honest about what olive oil can do poorly. Oleic acid is a powerful penetration enhancer. For some skin types, that feels wonderful. For others, especially those with very reactive, eczema-prone, or already-compromised barriers, high-oleic oils can increase permeability and trigger stinging or irritation.
This does not mean "olive oil is bad." It means our skin is diverse. If you are acne-prone, seborrheic, or you flare easily, start with patch testing and small surface areas. If you are looking for a gentler, more balanced approach, consider olive oil as part of a blend rather than as a standalone, daily facial oil.
Olive oil for hair: shine, slip, and scalp comfort (with realistic expectations)
Hair is not skin. A strand is largely dead keratin with a cuticle that can lift, chip, and roughen over time. When we apply oils to hair, we are mostly changing surface friction, reducing static, and improving combability. Sometimes we also reduce hygral fatigue, the repeated swelling and shrinking from wetting and drying.
1) Olive oil as a pre-wash protector
If your scalp is dry or your lengths feel brittle after washing, a small amount of olive oil applied 30 to 60 minutes before cleansing can reduce that "squeaky" stripped sensation. This is especially useful if you are transitioning away from harsh detergents and toward gentler cleansing.
We have explored this broader cleansing philosophy in our piece on the benefits of sulfate-free shampoo. Even when we use solid cleansers, we aim for a kinder wash cycle that respects the scalp as skin.
2) Olive oil for ends: slip and shine, not weight
A single drop warmed between palms can be enough for mid-lengths and ends. The goal is not to saturate the fibre. The goal is to reduce friction and make hair feel less brittle. If you have fine hair, too much olive oil will look heavy quickly. If your hair is curly or coily, you may tolerate more, especially when layered over a water-based leave-in or applied to damp hair.
3) Scalp massage: when olive oil makes sense and when it does not
On a calm, dry scalp, olive oil can be soothing. On an inflamed, flaky scalp driven by Malassezia overgrowth (a common contributor to dandruff), heavy oils can sometimes worsen the situation by creating a richer environment for the yeast. If your flakes are greasy, yellowish, or accompanied by persistent redness, treat the cause rather than smothering the symptom.
This is one reason we are careful with botanical combinations. Ingredients like buchu, tea tree, and rosemary can be supportive for scalp clarity when formulated responsibly and used at appropriate concentrations. We have written about buchu oil for clear skin and a healthy scalp and also explored rosemary in skincare and haircare as a tonic with a long cultural and scientific story.
From liquid to solid: where olive oil fits in waterless skincare
When we started Aardvel in the Cederberg, water was never an abstract sustainability topic. It was and is a daily constraint. Waterless skincare is not only about shipping less weight. It is also a practice of attention: fewer products, fewer steps, fewer plastic bottles, and more respect for what skin actually needs.
We captured this philosophy in our journal entry on Waterless Rituals: What Solid Skincare Teaches Us About Skin, Soil, and Self. Olive oil belongs in that conversation because it performs well in concentrated formats and because it behaves beautifully in cold-process soapmaking when used with intention.
Olive oil in cold-process cleansing bars
In a cold-process formula, much of the olive oil is converted into soap (sodium olivate) through saponification. This changes how it behaves compared to raw oil. A well-aged bar with olive oil can cleanse with a softer feel than harsher detergent-based cleansers. The "mildness" people associate with olive oil soaps is real, but it is still soap. It still has a higher pH than skin. That is why we focus on balanced formulations, good cure times, and routines that return comfort after cleansing when needed.
If you are using a shampoo bar for the first time, technique matters as much as formula. We have a practical guide here: How to Use a Shampoo Bar: Step-by-Step Guide.
Olive oil in leave-on solids (and why we like it in blends)
In a leave-on bar, olive oil is not saponified. It stays as a lipid, contributing glide and pliability. Yet because it is mostly oleic acid, we often prefer it as part of a broader lipid choir: shea for structure, cocoa butter for silk, and smaller portions of specialty botanicals for targeted support.
We lean into South African botanicals where they make sense, not because they are exotic, but because they are coherent with our climate and our skin realities. Rooibos, for instance, is rich in antioxidant compounds and has a calm, steady temperament in skincare. If you want to explore that story, we wrote about rooibos for skin.
In our own work, you will see this thinking reflected in concentrated, waterless formats like our Buchu Rooibos Skin Butter, where botanical tradition meets the practical needs of dry, wind-exposed skin.
How we use olive oil for skin: practical rituals (not fantasies)
Olive oil is at its best when we treat it as a tool. Here are grounded ways we use olive oil for skin that respect both science and real life.
1) The "one-minute seal" after bathing
- Pat skin until it is no longer dripping, but still slightly damp.
- Warm a few drops of olive oil between palms.
- Press, do not rub aggressively, over shins, arms, and hands.
This works because we are sealing in the water already present on the skin surface. It is simple, inexpensive, and effective for body dryness.
2) For hands that crack in winter
Hands are washed more than any other area. Olive oil can help, but it often needs reinforcement. We alternate between oil and a more structured waterless moisturiser depending on the day. When the barrier is already compromised, the goal is not shine, it is comfort and continuity.
3) Oil cleansing for makeup or sunscreen (with a gentle follow-up)
Olive oil can dissolve oil-based debris. Massage a small amount onto dry skin, then emulsify with lukewarm water and a soft cloth. If you are acne-prone, keep this occasional rather than daily, and follow with a gentle cleanser.
If you want a low-fuss, solid cleansing option for face and body that aligns with our botanical approach, you can explore our Buchu Rosemary Skin Cleansing Blok. We keep our cleansing philosophy simple: cleanse thoroughly, do not over-strip, then support the barrier.
How we use olive oil for hair: realistic methods that respect the fibre
1) Pre-wash scalp and lengths (dry hair)
- Apply a teaspoon or less to fingertips and massage into scalp gently.
- Distribute the residue down the lengths, focusing on ends.
- Wait 30 to 60 minutes.
- Cleanse thoroughly, then rinse well.
After this, a well-formulated solid cleanser can do its job without you feeling punished by your own hair. If you are exploring botanical shampoo bars, our Buchu Rosemary Hair Cleansing Blok is one example of how we build cleansing around plant intelligence, not aggressive surfactants.
2) The micro-dose for frizz
For frizz and flyaways, we use the micro-dose: one drop, warmed, applied only to the canopy and ends. If you can see the oil, you used too much. The goal is to smooth the cuticle, not coat the hair into silence.
Choosing the right olive oil for skin and hair
If we want olive oil to behave well on skin and hair, we choose it with the same care we give any raw material.
- Choose extra virgin when possible, especially for leave-on use, because the antioxidant fraction is richer.
- Look for harvest date, not only expiry date. Fresher is better.
- Prefer dark glass or opaque packaging. Light accelerates oxidation.
- Store cool, away from stove heat and sun.
- Trust your nose. Rancid oil is not "fine."
For sensitive faces, we also consider the wider lipid profile. If you know your skin flares with rich oils, you may do better with olive oil on the body and a more tailored facial product. There is no moral virtue in forcing an ingredient to work for you.
Olive oil, Cederberg botanicals, and the regional advantage
Olive oil carries Mediterranean heritage, but the Western Cape has its own olive story. Our region understands sun intensity, dry air, and the need for resilient plants. In the Cederberg, we also understand minimalism. Too many products can become another kind of noise.
That is why our formulations and rituals keep returning to a few principles: respect the barrier, cleanse without brutality, moisturise without water-heavy fillers, and let botanicals do precise work. Olive oil plays a supporting role in that philosophy. It is not a miracle. It is a reliable lipid that becomes more powerful when paired with the right companions, used at the right dose, and chosen with freshness in mind.
When we make solid skincare in small batches, hand-poured, hand-cut, and hand-wrapped, we are not chasing romance. We are making sure the texture, cure, and stability are right so your routine is dependable. That is what luxury means to us: less performance, more integrity.
A simple way to start (and how to know it is working)
If you are curious about olive oil for skin and hair, begin with one experiment for two weeks:
- Body: Apply a few drops to damp shins and forearms after bathing.
- Hair: Use a small pre-wash treatment once a week, then cleanse gently.
Signs it is working: less tightness after washing, fewer flakes on clothing, less breakage from tangles, and a scalp that feels calm rather than coated. Signs it is not: persistent stinging, new congestion on the face, or hair that looks heavy no matter how little you use.
We do not need to turn olive oil into mythology. It is enough that it is useful. In a dry place like ours, usefulness is a kind of beauty.
